Greetings:
TV Guide actually outranked National
Geographic in my childhood home. I do not remember seeing even a
single issue of the latter strewn on any coffee or end table. Perhaps
the au natural joie de vivre of the dancers from the Dark Continent
were thought to be an intimidating temptation no Catholic-raised boy
could resist without incident.
Nevertheless, there was an exalted aura
to that little media magazine. A critic named Cleveland Amory would
write a weekly review of some trending show (wait we didn't trend, we
had 'fads' and 'hit series'). Every once in a while,
though, Mr.
Amory's column would be supplanted by other literary genre such as a
cooking recipe.
On one such occasion I espied a recipe
for 'Spaghetti Carbonara'. ...I did not know much of the world
then...it was a simpler time...little did I know that I knew so
little about the pedigree of this dish. Had I been more aware I would
have avoided the nagging existential choice of cream or no cream.
TV Guide not only advocated cream but
also required the schmoozing of bacon grease with more respectable
ingredients. Within a few short years this grease was rejected for
the bounder that it was and nothing more was said of it again.
It would be with similar disdain that a
modern Italian chef would rain on me for my continuous use of this
despoiler (“Out, damn'd cream! Out, I say!”).
So now that I stand culinarily exposed
before you, I will describe this proletarian pasta indulgence and you
can do with it as you will.
Decades of requests for this dish and
subsequent digestive onomatopoeia (love those four vowels in a row)
have created a pseudo legitimacy and desirability of my carbonara. It
was requested for our son and daughter-in-law's wedding; it gave Gini
a well-rewarded night off from cooking; it generated molto requests
for its construction.
To prepare for this certain expected
and some choice components need to be assembled.
A pound of fresh linguine (I
recommend 'Mr. Pasta''s in Miami Beach – your own if possible)
A half pound of bacon (the
cognoscenti are grumbling at this point since pancetta would be their choice and guanciale for most of those who have not
read this far)
Three eggs
(fresh, fresh, fresh)
A cup of grated cheese (Yes,
grate it yourself, parmiaggiano-regiano or pecorino or half cup of
each)
A teaspoon of black pepper (freshly
ground)
Cream (Did
I say that? (Heavy or whipped will do)(Usually a bit less than a cup
but you decide)
The
complete recipe includes:
Yes,
that would be shaken, not stirred.
As you
have probably assumed there is a significant amount of grating and
grinding involved. Get your bacon going first and then proceed to the
grating and grinding. Should you go the pancetta or guanciale route
you can wait a bit longer.
Crack
ice, place in shaker, count to two for every interested party while
pouring your favorite gin (Bombay would be ours) and acquaint the
shaker with dry vermouth. Run some olives through with something a
little more creative than a toothpick and pour over ice for the
majority and straight up for the purists.
As you
serve these frigid phenomena also hand out the pepper mill and that
block of cheese and grater. It should be quite festive at this point
but keep an eye on that bacon.
Start
boiling your water and set aside a colander in the sink. Timing is
going to be crucial. Get to know the people in your kitchen a bit
better at this point but avoid religion and politics. Beat three eggs
with a fork, add the cup of cheese as you continue beating and the
cream. Gather the cooked bacon in paper towels and crumble. Briefly
cook pancetta or guanciale and reduce to small pieces if you are
going that route.
As the
water reaches a boil throw in some kosher salt. If you have real
fresh pasta you are limited to less than a minute to prepare for the
chemistry that needs to happen.
You
are essentially trying to cook the eggs with the hot pasta. Too much
heat curdles/scrambles the eggs. Drain the pasta into the colander
and quickly throw it back into the pot. Begin to pour the
egg/cheese/cream mixture into it. Using a large fork and spoon, lift
clumps of pasta through the mixture and coat as much of it as you can
– like all of it. Do not do this over an electric burner that was
turned off recently – curdle city. Throw in the bacon, mix, and
sprinkle the ground pepper. People should, at this point, be
scrambling for plates, silverware and wine glasses. Chianti will do
just fine. Caesar salad would have been a nice request for those
wishing to bring something.
As for
the cream...Mangia bene, ridi spesso, ama molto...Buon appetito.