Ferrara For A Day

Greetings

Though it is perilously approaching nostalgia, here is an account of our tourist day in Ferrara, Italy.

Getting to the train station from our rooms, even though it was Sunday and the bus schedules changed, was fairly straightforward. It was a brief ride (under an hour); roughly due north of Bologna. It was a long walk, however, to the sights we wished to see and a bit on the warm side. The streets were almost empty with some traffic (day of rest?). So it was quite fortuitous to happen upon:

For someone like Chris this was just the natural flow of the universe. The perfect place to stop; Gini agreed.

It was run by a woman and her son. The son was the front man bringing people in and accommodating them as to seats or counter items.

We opted for the seats with that certain alluring ambiance.

Totally fortified we felt able to continue our pilgrimage to the castle and moat destination of

the Palazzo Giulio d’Este also known as Castello Estense.

Ah the moat…

This city boasts no Roman ruins. We are talking your feudal, medieval, Renaissance creation here. The Este family were the resident powers in the city thanks to a marriage to Lucrezia Borgia among other factors. Though constantly at war (Venice, Papal States for a couple of foes/friends), this city became renowned for art, music and trade.

The tour of the castello included a creepy look at the nether regions of the castle where enemies and uncooperative relatives spent many a year. The upper floors gave a more comfortable picture of the residence:

One is always reminded of the painstaking process to recover and maintain centuries old artwork and architecture:

Cloth patches are individually placed to mark current areas of restoration.

The tour included a very good description and history of the city and the Este family. It rivaled Venezia and Firenze in many ways.

A city of ultimately thirty two thousand, two thousand were Jews at one point and were protected from Roman Catholic persecution much to the Vatican’s chagrin. An earthquake in 1570 changed the kharma and the Estes fell out of power.

Thanks to technology where to eat was determined through Trip Advisor. Il Mangiastorie provided a wonderful inexpensive fixed price meal.

Though a bit on the warm side, Sunday provided a leisurely atmosphere to explore and seek out our next palazzo. Along the way we encountered wonderful architecture of an artisan city.

Eventually Palazzo Schifanola was found. This “Palace of Joy” or pleasure palace meant to “banish boredom” had gained notoriety because of its construction by an Este who was the son of Lucrezia Borgia. Much of the art was faded or had been removed. There were some interesting period pieces of furniture.

The best part was a very funky restaurant on the grounds.

Since the meal at Il Mangiastorie had been so good there were no regrets … but maybe next time…

The heat and all the walking must have been taking its toll as Gini requested a nap …“just twenty minutes”. Inspired by the leisurely setting she compromised with a short rest:

Palazzina di Marfisa d'Este, however, did not disappoint. Alas, no pictures were allowed and one must research this on the web but the furniture and layout here was very satisfying. There were obvious displays to dispel the notorious reputation of the residence also being a pleasure palace (those Estes, you know). Marfisa was a woman of taste and intelligence. The grounds here were also wonderful and are available for private functions.

Eventually the way led back to the Piazza Maggiore. Here was a major cathedral and civic buildings and offices.

 

The mandatory gelato was consumed after a stroll through a craft market set up for the day. Feeling adventurous, but mostly tired, public transportation was sought and secured allowing an early evening ride back to Bologna.

Upon arrival the Sunday schedule of buses in Bologna did provide a surprise when what was thought to be the weekend equivalent of our ride home actually headed away from the city center. Thank you iPhone for verifying the wayward course and allowing a hop back on to the street to catch the next bus in the other direction. Some comfort pizza and the ambience of Bologna at night allowed for a quiet evening. Ciao Ferrara.