Monday, September 23, 2013

Goin' Dutch

Greetings time travelers. Let us once again put three dimes in the grandfather clock and cue the organist. Ah…leaving Venice and heading for Amsterdam.

Let it be said right up front that our assessment of Amsterdam from this one night stay definitely is lacking in either enthusiasm or ability to change traveling gears. Amsterdam is a wonderful city, however we are glad we have visited and may not seek it out again. This would be our loss and not the city’s. It is just that after three weeks in Italy with fabulous summer weather and the best food on the planet any other venue would be compared to the Monkees after Jimi Hendrix opened for them (Jul 8-17, 1967). Amsterdam was cute like the Monkees and much more sophisticated but nonetheless a dramatic change of context.

Coming in from the airport seemed straightforward until we started reading signs and directions. A Germanic root is a possible starting point but after the third umlaut, procreation of the letter ‘a’ and prurient use of the letters ‘j’ and ‘k’, even the Germans must raise an eyebrow. As you can guess we could not find our hotel easily. However everyone speaks English. This is a plus both for lost tourists and the cosmopolitan flavor of the Dutch. The minus was that no one had heard of the hotel but could ‘imagine’ where it might be. John Lennon’s inspiring air did not ease the frustration of the quest.

The American Hotel offered some hope; to the point where Chris wanted to forego the actual reservation and make a new one right there. They were very helpful though and eventually we found the Best Western Leidse Square Hotel, Tesselschadestraat 23, Amsterdam Oud-West, Amsterdam.



Everything was quite in order and we received some recommendations and some directional guidance.

Immediately upon touring, the canals were ubiquitous:


This did allow for some continuity with Venice and hearken some pleasant boating experiences courtesy of the Seine’s Bateaux Mouches. Definitely on the plus side. So lunch on the canal seemed de rigeur. An alfresco opportunity with a large Guinness sign seemed to beckon. A beer and a sandwich with a northern Europe flavor would be an acceptable change from panini and spritzes. Espying an unknown choice from the draughts, Chris ordered it along with a sandwich. The waitron said that he would love the drink selection.

Now you can play to the strength or weakness of a country’s cuisine anywhere. It is a bit unsettling when you think you are playing to a strength and the draft they bring out has more in common with cider than hops. Alright, when on foreign soil be adventurous and accommodating…thank you and, oh, this is quite different than what I thought I had ordered. The response was a conversation closing: “Enjoy!”. Whoops…

The sandwich was technically consorting with bread/roll but configured more for aesthetics than actual eating. It was not going well. Paying also turned into a cultural experience. Is there a gelato place nearby?

The overcast skies began to abet a grey demeanor. This, on top of the pedestrian urban experience in Amsterdam. We are talking well constructed and used bike lanes, trolley lanes, bus lanes, crosswalks and auto lanes combined in an Escher-like configuration.

The bikes were impressive. This is not your isolated speed nut weaving in and out of sidewalk and traffic or leisurely pedaling. Everyone was cruising at the same speed (fast) in a very organized fashion. This made the crosswalks more interesting as you ran out of eyes checking possible avenues of collision with the trolleys, buses and cars.



Vondelpark proved to outdo any ongoing disappointment. Several museums are there along with wonderful green spaces, waterworks, ponds, paths and people.

The Rijksmuseum is an anchor there and is occasion to great art and sculpture. It was quite effortless to wander and take in the sights.








 Chris had prepared for Amsterdam by contacting two of his former students, one of whom had lived in Amsterdam for a year. This led to a suggestion that dinner, now a nebulous prospect given the lunch experience, should be a little more on the ‘sure thing’ side of touring. Amsterdam is the perfect place to partake of Indonesian food. So Ben had said to try a rice table. This was an excellent suggestion.


A plethora of plates, aromas and tastes are brought to you during your dining experience. They are on trays and pedestals and use sterno heaters for continuous warming. Not too shabby. This fueled our post dinner constitutional.

The picture portion of the experience will now draw to a close as a change from PG-13 to NC17 is anticipated.

The Red Light District and marijuana…hmm…

As for the district, it was a destination that was known to be a jarring experience but still a curiosity. The tolerant attitude of the Dutch was most interesting. Families, for goodness sake, were ‘cruising’ the District and yes, you are separated by just a pane of glass from the enterprising professionals. Most bizarre. Now have seen and done that.

As for the coffee shops, the boys and some internet research had provided more than enough information to cultivate more curiosity. One can buy cannabis in various forms from these coffee shops and indulge on the premises. Due to intimidation (“Everybody is so young in there!”) and the prospect of Gini having to navigate through the city streets back to the hotel while securely leading Chris on a kite string did not bode well. Oh well.

The hotel was reached without further complications, breakfast was obtained and the now familiar transit system provided for a ride to the airport. Gini, the travel wizard, had already qualified for business class. Chris had been assigned to tray collection in coach but somehow Gini secured a business class seat for him. Boy, did he marry well!

So, back to the USA but…could we have some more wine please?


No comments:

Post a Comment

Anyone care to comment?